All of these models are fixed, and so the next logical step is to consider split keyboards. At this point I used a heat gun to remove the headers and fit some smaller ones which ruined the finish in the process. At this point the remaining tasks were to solder on the last components and test that the keyboard worked. This suggests I may prefer I mid-sized board with a higher number of modifiers and layers within range of the home row. Good news is that once everything is sorted, I can apply my tenting system to any split keyboard and even regular boards. Next I tried 99% strength Isopropyl alcohol which was much better at removing bad lacquer, cleaning the copper, and leaving no residue. The plan is to design and write my on Space Cadet QMK driver with Greek, logic, and LISP-inspired layers. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Next I tested that the micro-controllers were not dead on arrival and installed the firmware. Lastly I soldered on the rest of the switches. My key switches for my custom mech build have arrived, thanks @ZealPC! I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. To test the LEDs I rigged together a simple circuit using a 5V rail from an Arduino, a resistor, and an LED. I also could not run make keebio/iris/rev2:default:avrdude to flash the default key-mappings onto the micro-controllers as this required a two-stage reset and fiddling with the dodgy Caterina bootloader. As for the style, I am going for an industrial look with a copper main and metallic accents. I wanted to learn about soldering and working with these components myself so I had to find some old stock. I've elaborated on and generalized this information to make it easier to use. Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. They start out slow, focusing on each column and finger, and build up to complete sentences and paragraphs. My colleague Alastair wrote a great blog about his split build: he designed his split board to sit on top of his MacBook Pro. As a bonus, I’ve included a couple build process images, shown in reverse chronological order. My vortex race 3, rocking cherry MX clears and a granite keyset as standard. Varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 Key Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches $ 155.00 $ 145.00; Sale! Ideally the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn’t supported in the rev 2. When fitting the keycaps the USB header snapped off. They’re nice, but the holes in the PCB were too tiny for the sockets to fit all the way in, le… As for my lacquering skills there is plenty of room for improvement. While this build guide shows parts for the Iris, the build is very similar to that of the Levinson, as well as the Nyquist Rev. At this point in the build process I did some research to get an idea of how mechanical keyboards work, and consider which components would be best for me. This build is specced out as follows: Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. iris keyboard. A Newbie's Guide to NS Iris Online Are you completely new? Admittedly I could have spent more time considering the ergonomic, stylistic, and practical matters but I’m leaving that to further work. Build Guides. Tactile clear switches are tactile and have a bump. Have tonnes of fun! This was muted to a degree by rubber O-rings under the keycaps, however the sound is still prominent and I’m not convinced I’m a fan just yet. I’m still missing a few parts, the most important of which are the spacers between the plate and the underside of the case. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. I have used several non-standard boards with different mechanical switches including my Vortex (MX Clears), a Roccat Ryos MK Pro (MX Black), a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 (MX Brown), Apple Magic keyboard (Butterfly switches of doom), a Das model S (MX blues), and others. Do not leave it 24 hours to re-apply in hot conditions as this will cause the lacquer to flake off, and you do not want to have to clean it off! I also soldered on the micro-controller headers at this point. We use essential cookies to perform essential website functions, e.g. I wasn’t a fan of this design as it already had many of the components pre-soldered on. In this blog I’ll talk about my experience building my first mechanical keyboard. Fortunately we have a maker lab at work stocked with the latest and greatest in technology from laser cutters to 3D printers and so resourcing the tooling shouldn’t be an issue. I may replace the green LEDS with yellow ones to be consistent. The silver lining is that I get to try out the DFU bootloader, and future proof half of my keyboard with a USB C-type port; the obvious downsides are cost and the need to have 2 types of cable should I ever choose to swap the master micro-controller over. Skip to content. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. 1.1 Summary of this Manual 2.0 IRIS Kit describes the contents of the IRIS kit and how to install the necessary drivers and software 3.0 Conduct a 3-D Measurement walks through the steps of setting up an IRIS kit and conducting a I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. Then the waiting game begins as you must keep an eye on this to ensure no dirt settles on the sticky surface, and reapply a new coating every 15 minutes or so. Learn Isis' skills, stats and more. Load Iris 2. I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! I played it safe and emulated the vortex colour scheme of off-white and grey caps (GEK and GKK). Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. Solder the LEDs and micro controllers onto the PCBs. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. PARTS: Iris PCB kit. Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. Additionally there are plenty of Iris build guides, which is valuable given the time constraints of this build (here, here, here). While I loved some features of both, I decided for various reasons that neither quite suited my needs. For Rev. With the components ready to go, it was time to build the board. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. 2u PCB-mount MX stabilizers(optional) 8. Item Contents 1. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. 3/4 The board (sort of) works and is pleasant to type on however there were several problems during the build and plenty of room for improvement. The choice of switch will likely have an effect on the switch plates I can mount them to, the PCBs that support them, and an onset of other side effects for the build (such as build height, usable keycaps, and more). Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. Faith in my soldering is not ideal but necessary and falls into that uncomfortable space of problems that are fiddly to get right and outright unpleasant to adjust in small increments. The LEDs need to be mounted in the same way as the resistors. Lost in what to do next? The result was barely worth the effort but I have received compliments about the professional quality of the finish, despite the patina on the undersides of the plates. In my previous post I decided I would build a new split keyboard, and explored the Iris. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. Just solder in your switches and you're done! With all things said and done this project took quite a lot longer than I had planned. As for user testing and firmware, I may write another post in the future. The base is finished but there is more work to be done! Only one of these tasks was completed due to the delay on the keycap delivery, and micro-controller-based problems. I’m not a fan of either of them for different reasons. My vortex at 75% hits a sweet spot of key use-density, quality, and size; however it is not split and has limited programmability of macros and key-bindings. Overall the build was a success with caveats. USB-C Cable 7. I had some trouble with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings. Covers just about everything like the Iris, Quefrency, Sinc, BDN9, and more! This simple test caught a few dud LEDs, and gave me an idea of how bright these diodes were. 54-56 Switches (MX, Alps, or Choc) 6. The build guide on the keeb.io website is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know. The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. A build guide for compiling and customizing your firmware is best found in the repo’s readme Iris build pics. pic.twitter.com/vUWUVVsQIL. translation missing ... [PRE-ORDER] TOFU RGB 60% Hot swap Custom keyboard kit. Other than that, the keyboard works like a charm! This involved cloning the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK toolbox. I’ll cover my aims (and constraints) for the build, followed by a build log, before finishing with some comments and further work. Buyer's Guide Dads ... AZIO’s gorgeous Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras. Layout of the components at the start of the build. Post with 3476 views. With the finishing posts in sight it was only fitting that more problems would come my way. The Iris Ice Project is a build of the Iris keyboard with custom made case composed of a 3D printed switch top plate, a translucent laser cut acrylic middle plate and a brushed still bottom plate. After futile efforts to recover the micro-controller, I ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design. Here's case design files for the Iris. It was at this point that I realised not only that I had soldered the headers on the wrong way round, but also that I didn’t have enough clearance between the micro-controller and the acrylic base. 4 Keyboard with 54 keys. I only have a week to build this board and any related components, such as firmware. To lacquer Copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn’t leave a residue like Isapropyl Alcohol. You may notice here some resistors are not used in the build, this is because I ordered the wrong ones! For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. Now is a good place to note that as these boards were B-stock one came pre-soldered with a few reset switches, MOSFETs and other components (probably for testing). The TRRS cable is also custom made to fit the right size. I opted to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets for the Pro Micro, which I bought from r/mechmarketsome time ago. Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. I’m not sold on the idea of using green LEDs to give an ‘oxidation effect’ as it contrasts too heavily with the copper, silver, and brass parts. It is the Iris from keebio. Mount the switches onto the plate and PCB. I wanted a profile that could help me navigate to the home row, whilst having a quality sound and feel that wouldn’t distract me at work. Linear red switches have neither and simply slide. 4.) Gifs sourced. Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. Finding the best layout can be a continual work in progress, but I’m happy with the layout so far. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. There are a number of options for the firmware powering the ErgoDox keyboard, each with their own sets of features and options. Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. Last but not least I’d like to thank the folks in the hardware lab at work who helped me solder and debug my board. I wanted to preserve the beautiful gleam of the copper for as long as can and so I lacquered the plates. The Ergo family seemed to be slight too big / too much going on for me; this would increase finger travel time when working. IRIS is an integrated hardware and software room acoustics measurement system developed by Marshall Day Acoustics. Instead I went for the Iris which struck a sweet spot between utility and size as well as having fashionable designs around. Next I had to prepare the through-hole diodes and resistors to solder to the board. Now that the small components were soldered on it was time to mount the switches. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. 2 and Rev. You can get assembly service from keeb.io. This isn’t a deep clack either, but rather rounded with accentuated highs. I assumed all parts would be provided, but some parts were not: I missed the reset button and two four-pin headers for the OLED screens. When choosing a split I had plenty of choice including the Ergodox, Iris, Let’s Split, Helix and more. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. This was perhaps the most unpleasant part of the build, but I’ll get into those later for the sake of narrative. QMK. It’s worth checking at this point that you haven’t got any dry joints which may cause your board not to work later if the contacts aren’t connected. Combined with green LEDs the goal is to give a copper patina look but without the patina. Iris Keyboard Case. Computer Keyboard Iris Battle Gaming Boards Concept Buttons Album Inspiration. Iris kit with Kailh low-profile switches and keycaps. I am yet to try a smaller (40-50%) board, such as the planck, but my suspicion is that this won’t be good for my large hands. Please consult the README guides for each firmware for specific instructions on how to use and compile it. Made to fit on a Monoprice Select mini build plate size. This took multiple attempts to get right, and multiple experiments to find the best way to prepare the copper. I’ve been using a Vortex Race 3 as my daily driver which partially bridges the gap with programmable macros, bindable keys, and stock layouts that make typing more efficient; however it is not fully reprogrammable to the n-th degree. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. This is a good build, however split builds like these are still bounded by the fixed-point problem and fiddly to get right as you must find the right angle of split before you make the board. I've included the original for you to use if your build area can handle it. The result of this search is a pair of B-stock boards of different colours; whilst this isn’t symmetric, it is still pretty. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. 3 & 4 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. I went with Zealios v2 67g as they are known for the tactile bump at the top of the switch, the solid design, and MX compatibility with the other components. I am largely happy with the result however as there is a beauty in uniqueness of the build and the memories that come with it! Look no further! I’ve been looking into stand-up desks, better ways to work, and the ergonomic things I can do to mitigate negative effects of, in essence, cramping up over a desk due to extended use. ... and to save AZIO having to build full and tenkeyless versions of the same device. by canderson. warning "For Kailh Low-Profile PCBs:" *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. The last of the switches, it's looking good! In particular the other board has SMD diodes and a MOSFET on which meant I doubled up on my order of diodes! They top a great build! I'm checking the solder job on a reset switch that came with the board and notice it's a little dry. Iris middle layer(optional) 5. No surprises here. Home Shop translation missing: en.layout.navigation.expand. First I tested that the LEDs, the micro-controller, and the switches operated as expected. In the past few months, I built an Ergodox and Planck keyboard. This process was repeated on the other board (flipped over). 2 PCBs, see Iris Rev. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. knowledge of the materials you are working with including metal lacquer. For my first build this board represents a success. Learn how to assemble various keyboards from Keebio. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. Standard keyboards force your hands to a small fixed-point of the table when working, and this is not a natural position for your hands. 2 Build Guide . Assembling an Iris keyboard. 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